Thirteen desserts

Traditional Christmas food in Provence, France The thirteen desserts in the Provence Les 13 desserts de la tradition de Noël en Provence The thirteen desserts (Occitan: lei tretze dessèrts) are the traditional dessert foods used to celebrate Christmas in the French region of Provence. The "big supper" (le gros souper) ends with a ritual 13 desserts, representing Jesus Christ and the 12 apostles. The desserts always number thirteen but the exact items vary by local or familial tradition. The food traditionally is set out Christmas Eve and remains on the table three days until December 27.

[edit] The first four of these are known as the "four beggars" (les quatre mendiants), representing the four mendicant monastic orders: Dominicans, Franciscans, Augustinians and Carmelites.

Raisins (Dominicans) Walnuts or hazelnuts (Augustinians) Dried figs (Franciscans) Almonds (Carmelites) Dates, representing the foods of the region where Christ lived and died Dried plums from Brignoles

[edit] Biscotins (biscuits) from Aix; Calissons d'Aix, a marzipan-like candy made from almond paste and candied melon. Candied citron Casse-dents of Allauch (biscuit) Cumin and fennel seed biscuits Fried bugnes Fruit tourtes Oreillettes, light thin waffles Pain d'epices Pompes à l'huile or fougasse à l'huile d'olive, a sweet cake or brioche made with orange flower water and olive oil Quince cheese/quince paste (Pâte de coing) Yule log Two kinds of nougat, symbolizing good and evil Black nougat with honey (Nougat noir au miel), a hard candy made with honey and almonds White nougat (Nougat blanc), a soft candy made with sugar, eggs, pistachios, honey, and almonds

[edit] Bayle St. John, writing in The Purple Tints of Paris (vol. 2) "The dishes are substantial; soup, boiled beef, veal, salad, cheese, apples, and what are called, for some mysterious reason, the four beggars — nuts, figs, almonds, and raisins, mixed together."

The number of desserts isn’t a culinary coincidence; it mirrors the biblical fellowship of Christ and his twelve apostles. In Provence each sweet is a symbolic stand‑in – the honey‑soaked nougats for the apostles, the fig for the humble, the bâton d'aisse for the Bread of Life. This ritualistic count turns a simple banquet into a quiet act of remembrance, especially when the spread stays on the table through the three days of «les Trois Péchés». For many families the choice of items is a chance to honour both faith and local produce, weaving together a shared story that lasts well beyond the first bite.

Start with a large, low platter or wooden board – the traditional Provençal "plato" – to accommodate the array without overcrowding. Arrange the items by size, from the towering calisson or nougat in the centre, radiating outwards to the smaller fruits and biscuits. Keep the richer, buttery desserts away from the delicate marzipan sweets to avoid soggy edges. Because the spread will sit out for up to three days, choose items that tolerate a little chill: dried figs, candied orange peel, and pistachio‑laden calissons keep well, while fresh tarts should be covered with cling film. Add a sprig of rosemary or a handful of dried lavender for a festive aromatic touch that nods to Provence's herb gardens.

Many think the thirteen desserts must include a fixed list – nougat, candied fruit, and a specific cake for each. In reality the tradition is delightfully flexible; what matters is the count, not the catalogue. Another myth is that the spread is all sugar-laden treats. While sweets dominate, the selection often features nuts, dried fruits, and even small cheese pieces, balancing sweetness with texture. Finally, some assume the table is cleared after Christmas Eve; the custom is to leave the desserts visible until the 27th, allowing guests to linger over the offerings and keeping the festive spirit alive throughout the holiday trinity.